I still have several “Field Trips” to memorialize here, but I had to follow-up with this weekend, our last experience in the North. The original trip to the Golan and Galilee took place over a month ago. While we repeated some of the edible and drinkable parts of the trip (chocolate, wine and goat cheese) we managed to add a few new destinations as well. And, sprinkled in between breakfast, lunch, and dinner were - you guessed it - sites, ruins, and viewpoints.

We left Sunday, a day earlier than planned, so we could go with Mr. and Mrs. B, our family here in Tel Aviv. Mr. B is a collector, a historian and a student of all things Jesus. Its sort of like traveling with a walking encyclopedia and bible. Even though he is 75, and Jewish, he tends to leave everyone he travels with in the wake of his energetic dust. Mrs. B is an incredible force as well, she knows every square inch of Israel, every family with those square inches, and every possible cultural activity and restaurant happening in and around them. She’s the TimeOut to his Britannica. So traveling with them is, how do i say, all-inclusive?

"The" place to buy nuts in Afula - according to Mrs. B.

The nut roasting machine, or,  an homage to Voyage dans la Lune. — The nut roasting machine, or, an homage to Voyage dans la Lune.

Its not a tourist view of Israel that we have when traveling with the B’s. Many of the places we visit don’t rank on the map of Israel’s Top 100 places, but really? they best them! It also helps to have someone who speaks the language and is curious to know everyone and anyones story. As we set out to see the beauty of the Galilee with the Lakes, farmland and forests, we had the unique experience of driving and touring during a Sharav. A Sharav is basically a diluted sandstorm (this one blown in from Egypt) and it deletes any and all views from your experience. Anything located above the horizon line is just erased.

An Arab village along the way. What do they have against windows? The blue sky has been replaced by a Sharav.

On the way north we stopped at Bar’am. Seriously, this is my favorite place/experience so far. Its the oldest most authentic Synagogue ruins we have seen. And it’s set high in the Galilee, in a tranquil forest, just as it was in the 7th century. I could live there. Throw a glass cube around it, place a super-comfy king size bed covered in white sheets with a double duvet in the center, and viola! heaven. Maybe a glass cube isn't the best idea as its only 300 meters from the Lebanese border and a stray bullet or shrapnel could shatter my dream house.

While walking around the ruins, i spotted an ominous metal figure used as a billboard on which the story of the Maronites was penned. After the Jews left the area (prior to the 13th century), the Maronites (an Arabchristian sect) inhabited the area.  There was a community of less than a  thousand people who voluntarily left their homes in 1948 because the Israeli army said that they would be unable to protect them during the war of independence. They were supposed to return 2 weeks later, when they discovered that the homes they VOLUNTARILY LEFT were bombed by the ISRAELIS THEMSELVES. It turns out that Israel was concerned that this Arab village might cooperate with the Lebanese.

We met a man whose family (Dow) left in 1948. He was five at the time and has recently returned with his children and grandchildren to camp out and re-occupy their homeland, representing all the families re-settled elsewhere. Their case is now in the high courts and we are hoping that the Maronites will be returned to their homes in Bar’am. He was very informative about their plight, showed us their church, and walked us to the cemetery because he had the keys. The only other visitors to the site that day was another Arab family from whose family was originally from Bar’am, on a picnic and BBQ-ing just outside of the Synagogue. As we passed through they begged us to join them. How lovely that these strangers wanted to share their meal, and their day, with us?

We arrived at The Mitzpe Hayamin hotel, famed for its spa and its founder who pioneered the idea of a completely sustainable hotel. They have their own organic gardens, orchards, and farm animals, a dairy, a bakery, and a soap factory on the premises. I was beyond excited to experience all of this. Excited until, we entered the hotel lobby and stepped back in time. Not the ancient time of Bar’am, no stone or woods, but that stylistic dead zone between the late sixties and mid-seventies. A time when fish tanks, indoor fountains and atriums were thought to be artistic additions to public spaces. I had checked out of the place before we managed to check in. I urged myself to remember all the great TripAdvisor reviews, the gourmet restaurant where we’d be having dinner that night, using all of the organic produce from the gardens. I willed myself to ignore the public spaces, and hoped that our room would be our sanctuary. I reminded myself that we’d be touring all day tomorrow anyway. I still had the world class spa, the heated indoor olympic pool, and the gardens to look forward to - so it would be do-able. It wasn’t. At check-in we were notified that our dinner that night was cancelled as the gourmet, organic restaurant was closed on sunday nights even though they had taken our reservation when we booked the hotel. If only we had come one day later, that meal could have made up for some of these disappointments. Not only was the restaurant closed but also the bar.

The room was large, the bed was super comfortable, the bathroom new, the balcony spacious with a spectacular view of the Galilee that we would never see due to the Sharav. There were occasional lights, one near the seating area, two by the bed, one in the bathroom, but for a room of this size, not one ceiling light to unpack a suitcase. The seating area furnishings were from Victorian England - all varnished woods with spot upholstery. The desk was a chair pulled up to a dresser where your knees knock into the brass drawer pulls. The TV, on a dresser next to the dresser/desk situation, was placed so you’d have to pull up a chair to watch it or use binoculars from the bed. More a place to have high tea than a romantic weekend. So we decided to explore - check out the pool and make some spa appointments. Thats when it all fell apart. The desk at the world class spa was like a dentist office from the 1940s, all hard surfaces and lit with fluorescents. We couldn’t bring ourselves to book. The indoor pool was indeed Olympic and heated, but the plastic lined-lanes seemed restrictive and the smell of chlorine was overwhelming. I applaud them for having an electronic chair to lower the disabled into the water, but it confirmed my suspicion that they had more than a few guests needing it. We dressed for dinner (so. not. necessary.) and were led to a table for 6 in what seemed like the dining room of a nursing home. It wasn’t only the decor, every sorry detail in sharp focus due to the abundant fluorescent lighting, but the guests seemed to be mostly elderly, non-ambulatory, and those who were shuffled back and forth to fill their their plates at the buffet. Yep, the buffet dinner we weren’t expecting. The atmosphere was completely oppressive, so much so that laughing as A joked about having some of this light in the room, was met with stares from several tables. Luckily, we were able to order a few shots of vodka, we didn’t dare ask for a Martini. Back in the room I did the research I should have done a week ago to find a place for us. Props to the designer and photographer for the Mitzpe Hayamim website- they sold us on the place.

We looked forward to waking up to the view of the sea of Galilee, but it was still deleted by the Sharav. It was so serious they closed the local Tel Aviv airport. After our buffet breakfast replete with chaffing dishes filled with uneaten gelatinous eggs, warm breakfast cereal and hardened muffin sized quiches sitting out since 6am, we checked out. This place wasn’t worth $650 a week let alone $650 a night! I found Shulamit Yard, a charming stone and wood “zimmer” (the Israeli word for B&B) for a third of the price. We dropped our bags and met the owner who was shocked that we left Mitzpe Hayamim to check into her chic and rustic little oasis, and left for our day of touring.

Shulamit Yard.  Much more authentic and beautiful — Shulamit Yard. Much more authentic and beautiful

We switched itineraries, saving the Golan views for the next day, hoping the Sharav would dissolve. Our first stop was the Domus Galilee, a massive brutalist looking structure designed by argentinian, hebrew and Columbian architects and engineered by an Austrian. Their goal is to have dialogue and harmony with all religions namely the jews and the catholics. The guide described the architectural elements and their emphasis on Harmony. He pointed out the contrasts of straight lines and curves, marble and stone, light and dark in the construction. As he described the stained glass windows and their modern interpretations of creation themes, he said something that i found really inspiring: In front of death we can do anything. He showed us the enormous grounds, including the dormitories for the students. I really wanted to tour those to see what living in what looks like a mausoleum must feel like. I didn't dare ask.

I found this sculptural fountainhead amusing. I loved that the water spouts looked like cigarettes hanging out of their mouths!

Study center in the center surrounded by the dormatories for the theology students.

The Domus was the exact opposite of the greek orthodox church we visited next, with its pink domed roofs, wandering peacocks and overgrown gardens of wisteria, bougainvillea, and palms. Inside are paintings of saints and scenes on every surface, wall to wall, floor to ceiling, in gorgeous bright colors and gold leaf. While I personally have no interest in a House of Worship, I can admire a House of Style.

A short walk away is the architectural ruins of Capernaum (Kapernaum/Kapharnaum), two ancient synagogues were found here built one on top of the other. It is known for Jesus teaching in the synagogue and healing locals who suffered from fevers, paralysis and devilish spirits. I’m sure there is so much more to say on the subject based on the massive amount of visitors, but i’m not the one to say it.

We drove to the village Metula which is called “the finger of Israel” as it pokes up into Lebanon, surrounded on three sides. Its so close to lebanon that when missles are launched they fly over it. We had lunch in the small village which was eerily quiet. The owner of Beit Shalom restaurant told us that because there was no snow on Mt. Hermon, there was very little tourism this winter, he was looking forward to the summer - this is where the Israeli’s come to cool off. In wartime this terrace is filled with journalists and the media. I am amazed with all of the conflicts in Syria, Lebanon and within Israel, that we constantly have such relaxed and delicious experiences.

Tuesday we had an al fresco israeli breakfast made by the owner Shulamit. The farmhouse has been in her family for over 100 years and she grew up here. When she inherited it, she turned it into a 6 room Zimmer. The rooms are modest and authentic, and through the decor she has added a personal touch with pillows, rugs and art acquired during her travels. We thought it would be an ideal place to rent out for a weekend with friends, we could imagine everyone sipping wine, lounging poolside to Coltrane in the courtyard.

Introducing the Mythic Israeli Breakfast (eggs not pictured)

We checked out Banias, a huge nature reserve which contains waterfalls, hiking trails, the Palace of Agrippa (1st century), and the ruins of a temple built to the god Pan. There is a stream that collects at the base of the mountain from snow that falls on Mt. Hermon. We checked out the ruins, which were overrun with school and tourist buses. It’s pretty amazing that you can still see the greek carved into the walls and stones after all this time. Unfortunately it was hard to take a photo without 50 strangers in it.

A choir from Houston, Texas was singing as we arrived

Column with greek inscription still readable. If you read greek of course.

We visited an observation point over the Hula Valley called Tel Faucher, another former Syrian outpost and bunker, a base that the Israelis won in the War of Independence in 1948. It was a major tank battle. You can wander the underground tunnels that the Syrians used to terrorize the people of the valley below, and then finally as a shelter during the war. I found it creepy, especially knowing that men were killed in the place I was standing.

A few kilometers away is a mountain that has 360º views to Syria, Lebanon and the Mediterranean. While we could see a bit, the haze was still lingering from the sandstorm. We stepped into the restaurant located here, called Coffee Anan. Its a play on Kofi Annan who was the Secretary General of the United Nations and a Nobel Peace Prize recipient and a man who was not very popular in Israel.

Coffee Anan. Anan is spelled in hebrew letters right to left (Ayin/Nun+Nun Sofit) Impressed?

One stop we didn’t anticipate was by some Israeli soldiers. I still can't get used to how young the soldiers, men and women, look to me. All kids go into a two year mandatory military service once they graduate from high school. So you see them everywhere, walking the streets, eating falafels, shopping for valentine gifts in malls, all with a machine gun casually slung over their shoulder. They stopped several cars so that a caravan of double-wide trucks carrying Israeli Military tanks could pass.

As we passed the Kunetra (Qunetra) Border, Mr. B pulled over so we could take a final look into Syria. With the help of binoculars we could see the separation wall, a mosque and a reservoir. Still no signs of life.

Syria above the grey line, more commonly known as the Border.

We visited the Pelter winery on our last trip and wanted to replenish our wine and cheese supply. In my opinion Pelter makes the best wine goat cheese in Israel. The cheese can only be bought at the tasting room and it is really worth a trip. Tal Pelter, the wine maker, hosted us through a speed-tasting (at our request, not his) of his wine accompanied by four different cheeses. This, and our visit to the artisan chocolate shop, made for a perfect lunch.

Bottles and bottles of I don't know what.

Wednesday, for us, was lazy after three days of ruins and religon. Wednesday, for the Israeli military, was busy. Israeli soldiers fired on three Hezbollah men planting bombs along the Syrian border at Kunetra where the Israeli’s regularly patrol. We missed the action by one day, which is probably a good thing.

http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/1.578018